Once safe in Lima we had to decide where to go next. All roads into the mountains, our preferred destination, were still closed due to recent landslides and continuous flood risks so we had to stay by the coast.
One of the few places not to have been flooded was the small coastal village of Paracas, 4 hrs south of Lima. We met a French couple in our hostel in Lima who recommended it and confirmed it was free from floods. Perfect! The next day we were there.
The main attraction in Paracas is the beautiful desert coastline that is the Nature reserve of Paracas and its close location to other interesting towns, ICA, Nasca, and a few km up the coast the larger fishing town of Pisco.
After spending 1 night in in a rubbish little hostel I went looking for a more spacious place to stay. After walking round for half an hour I founda nice cheap little hostel with great communal space, a clean kitchen and fridge, a cat, a dog, a kitten and a little girl called Cielo. Perfect for Scott! Also a little park close by where the local kids hangout with a great set of monkey bars. Perfect for Ingrid. All in all a perfect place to chill out for a few days.
Time to do nothing much
Schoolwork every morning or afternoon, followed by long walks on the beach, cooking together, playing in the park and going on little excursions.
There is an area in Paracas filled with luxury houses and hotels, so eating out is not very cheap but with not much in our schedule here we liked spending time buying ingredients and cooking. Ingrid got her mojo back after her tummy bug and was keen to help me cook. Scott as always loves helping with any meal. A huge batch of Chile con carne got everyone back in great sprits!
The beach in Paracas is a beautiful wildlife sanctuary but not great for swimming as there is quite a lot of seaweed in the water. Instead we loved long walks to the kite surf club and back among flamingos, pelicans, sea lions and many other beautiful wild birds.
Deserts and wildlife while waiting for the mountains
We had a great day swimming in one of the best beaches in Peru, a 15 min drive through the desert from Paracas at Mina beach.
We went there early in the morning after at stop to admire the red beach in the desert landscape along the way. Once at Mina, we climbed down the stairs to the sandy beach tucked away between 2 big sandy hills. Fresh, clearand sparkling clean water, what a great little place for a swim. We paid S70 (£15) for a private car to take us there and wait 3 hrs to then the us back plus S 40 to enter the national park.
Wealso did the mandatory boat trip to see the amazing wildlife our on the Islas Ballistas. The tickets cost S35 per person, but then just before boarding the boat they tell you to pay the national park tax as well S15 per person. 2 hrs of sea lions, pelicans, penguins and boobies with a great guide in a quiet and comfortable speedboat is well worth the money. The roaring herds of Sealions made the most amazing sound as we bobbed along the cliffs in the boat.
So even though we enjoyed our time here, some days hiding for the blowing sand in our room, we would not have stayed here more than a few days under normal circumstance. Given the trauma and illness over the past 2 week in Trujillo and Huanchaco, this was a good place for us to rest and recharge our batteries, just be together and not do too much. We are all ready and excited to finally go into the mountains in Cuzco and Machu Picchu.
We had 2 days on the beach in Huanchaco and a morning of wandering around town before the floods hit us in this town as well! We had tried to follow the unfolding Peru floods on the news, but its amazing how difficult it is to get information without access to the internet.
Through the owners of the hotel we found out that Trujillo, where the roof of our hostel caved in just 2 days earlier, had been badly hit with the first of 7 floods the day we left our hostel there. Everyone we met in Huanchaco were concerned about the floods but not expecting it to be a problem in Huanchaco a few km up the coast from Trujillo.
Worst floods in 30 years hit us in Huanchaco
When the river bursts its bank at 3 o’clock in the afternoon, all the houses and business were caught unprepared. As muddy sludge started making its way down the main street, all we could do was to seek refuge on the roof and watch as the water continued to rise. In the distance we could see the sea turning brown from the outlet of the swollen river.
Mud and sludge filled the streets and the ground floor of our hotel and all the other houses along the water front wiping out electricity, water systems and all the local phone and internet networks.
I felt completely helpless and yet somehow strangely calm as we watch the water fowling and the sun setting over the flooded streets. Time to get our head torches out, cook some spaghetti on the gas cooker and play a game of cards. We went to bed hoping to get some sleep but sirens, rain and worry kept me awake while the kids slept an unsettled sleep and Paul resting but with a high temperature and in pain day 3 of his tummy bug illness.
Stocking up on water and food
The morning after the floods Paul was feeling worse, I was exhausted and the kids naturally stressed about the flooding and situation all around us. Most of the water had subsided and in the hotel, staff and the owners had spent most of the night trying to clear the ground floor of the mud and water. No electricity, no water in the taps but at least we had a gas cooker that worked. I set out to find and stock up on supplies.
With many shops affected by the floods those that were still open were limiting the what you could buy to make sure everyone could get something. I took our big back pack and went round looking for open shops stocking up on water and dry food to last us a few days. Spaghetti, tuna, tomato sauce, biscuits and crackers. I also got some eggs, flour, sugar and milk hey presto pancakes of breakfast to lighten the mood!
After the floods the real nightmare begins
…20-30 cm thick sludge and mud was covering everything where the water had flooded and then subsided…piles of dead fish, plastics, trees and rubble washed up on the beach and streets along with many damaged houses and buildings, some still under water.
Watching the news in a little shop I could see that Trujillo and nearby Chiclayo and many other places were still inundated and that all roads in and out of Trujillo and all of Northern Peru remained closed due to landslides and ongoing floods.
I realised our plans to go further into the mountains Cajamarca and Chachapoyas would not be realised. Disappointed of course as we had all been looking forward to exploring the less touristy mountains and ruins of northern Peru…but what can you do?
Help! – Emergency call to the British Embassy
While the streets remained unsafe filled with dirt and water, Paul was getting worse, no electricity to help the kids pass time reading on the kindles, watch TV or a film…and as boredom kicks in.the kids decide to spend the morning making and running a beauty salon! I just love my kids!
With no means of leaving the flooded area or ability to check our options to fly out I took a taxi to the local little Airport to see if we could somehow buy tickets to fly out somewhere safe. No such luck….
Military planes were evacuating people, locals and gringos had been waiting at the tiny airport for up to 36 hrs to get on a plane to get out. With the airport in chaos and no information or help to be found.
I returned to Huanchaco disheartened and even more worried. Flights could only be bought on line or through a travel agent, but Internet was not working and all travel agents closed due to the floods….
When Paul started vomiting and shaking with 40 degrees temp, the following morning and with only $20 left in cash, no way of getting medicine or money and no where we could go I made a call to our travel agent in London on the hotel owners phone to see if they could help us buy some flights to get out …4 tickets suddenly became available to fly out the next day but Paul was way too ill to travel. Next available tickets were for 6 days later and costing us a small fortune….With the thought of 6 more days in the flood zone I feel panic kick in and decide to make contact with the British Embassy in Lima, to ask for advice and medical help in case Paul would get even worse.They tell me there is a place in Trujillo where ATMs are still working and a functioning private clinic we can go in case of an emergency….
After I made it to a shopping centre where there was still cash, Travel Nation confirmed our flights out 6 days later and I managed to find antibiotics for Paul I was feeling a bit better…that only lasted 1 day until Ingrid suddenly turned really ill as well.
This time I could get antibiotics quickly but was still worried sick about Ingrid who was vomiting and had diarrhoea for 2 days not being able to keep liquids down….I was counting down the days till we could leave…..
Unforgettable lessons in life
Since we started travelling we have, and especially me, practiced being in the moment and not worrying about things that could or might happen. During our 2 weeks in flooded Peru I had to work really hard to keep calm and not get worked up, agitated or frustrated about the situation is which we accidentally found ourselves. The kids are very resilient and adaptable but they take their queue from me and Paul on how to act ad react. Keeping calm and positive was essential for their wellbeing and peace of mind in this very stressful situation.
We help clean the beach
Walking through the aftermath
Scott found many interesting things- especially smelly shoes
We got a first hand experience of a huge natural disaster, it is not something I would wish on anyone but its part of life for many people and something we will never forget.
We were never in a life threatening situation even though some moments felt dangerous and scary. We have talked about it a lot with the kids, made drawings and write ups about it to help process the experience. It has also given us an amazing opportunity to talk about global warming, water flow and rivers, about flooding and city planning, plumbing, recycling, water, volume and the devastating effects of floods.
We wanted to explore and experience the word, show the kids that life in different parts of the world have different challenges. Ingrid and Scott have learned so much from this experience and felt first hand the fear it causes but also the importance of community and solidarity while helping clear up after the floods. I am glad we have managed to finally leave and sad that we didn’t get to see the beautiful north in its full glory, but looking back, its an experience I wouldn’t change.
In the centre of the Pacific strip of Nicaraguan territory, along the long volcanic chain that crosses the country from north to south, is a large and extinct crater. In the centre is one of the most beautiful lagoons in Nicaragua, Laguna de Apoyo.
We went to one of a handful of hostels located here for a day pass to their “beach club”. The entrance fee to spend the day is 6.00 dollars per person and 3.00 dollars for children from 6 to 12 years old. We spent the day relaxing in a sun bed overlooking the lake on one of the spacious terraces. We wentkayaking, swimming played ping pong and petanque, all which is included in the entrance fee. Getting here is easy from Granada by chicken bus and taxi or shuttle service that takes you all they way there.
Watching bubbling lava at the awesome Masaya volcano
We went with Erick tours out of Granada for a night viewing of the volcano. We spent a few hours exploring Massaya town before heading up the actual volcano just before sunset. There is a bit of a wait to get up to the volcano as they only allow 50 people at a time, but our guide, Alberto, was excellent. He spent the waiting time giving us information onNicaragua volcanoes & Masaya and the general history of Nicaragua.
Once at the top, the lava lights up the whole sky in a magical orange glow! Amazing view of the bubbling lava but strong sulphur fumes means you can only stay 15 min at the top. We were all seriously coughing by then and glad to get off the top of the volcano.
Rooftop ride to swim in the cool waters of Aguas Agrias
On the way from Aguas Argias we went to the Treehouse for an amazing dinner at sunset. The Treehouse is located half an hours drive from Granada, 200m up in the jungle.
Its is a wonderful place to bring he kids, although some might think its perhaps a bit dangerous for little ones. The actual house is built into the side of volcano Mombacho, surrounded by howler monkeys, complete with a fire mans pole, some swings and a 60 metre canopy bridge connecting the main house where you eat to a smaller house where you can sleep in hammocks. The kids have never climbed up 200m so fast before in their life. We stayed for drinks, a communal meal and a truly beautiful sunset.
Other things we enjoyed in Granada
Pottery class making our own eggcups out of red clay from are area of san Juan de Oriente. We all had a go under the instruction of the watchful eye of the master, Carlos. We were not very successful, but persuaded him to sell us the little creations we made. Eggcups!
Watching the annual parade at the global poetry festival
The International Poetry Festival celebrates poets from around the world (and is also the largest poetry festival in the world). We didn’t go to any of the poetry readings but enjoyed the many events that took place in Granada’s open plazas, parks, churches, and markets. The highlight for us was the Carneval which made its way trough the centre of Granada stopping at every street corner for a poetry reading.
Malaysia, one of our favourite countries on our round the world trip so far.
Boat taxi Perhentian islands
We cut our planned time in China short by 2 weeks as we could not face to process of applying for visa extensions. By paying a small fee we managed to move our planned flight to Kuala Lumpur forward and thought why not stay for 2 weeks somewhere in Malaysia before our next planned flight to Australia. Having traveled inland in Nepal and China for 2 months we were longing to swim in the sea and found cheap flights from Kuala Lumpur to Kuta Barhu, form where we would get the taxi and boat to the Perhentian Islands. Go there its amazing!
Ingrid spotting her 1st giand green sea turtle just off the beach in Turtle bay
Friends in Kuala Lumpur
Our next stop in Kula Lumpur was on our way back from Australia and Bali before heading off to Thailand. This time we stayed with our new friends , Eun, Sean and Scott who we met in Perhantian Islands 6 weeks earlier and with some old friends of ours from London. Kuala Lumpur is such a great place, it even has some amazing indoor climbing.
Planning out a RTW trip can be very daunting! We started with a simple top 10 destination wish list each which we compared and aligned after some discussion. We then researched the weather in our now joined destination wish list to make sure we would avoid major rainy season and too hot weather if possible.
You then have to choose weather to go clock wise or anti clockwise depending depending on where you want to be when. We choose to travel clockwise as the weather in our planned destinations seemed to work out best that way.
Finalising a round the world trip itinerary
8-9 months before our planned departure days we got in touch with a few travel agencies to get quotes for RTW tickets. Travel Nation worked out cheapest and best for us and we have many dialogues with our appointed travel agent who helped us finalise the trip. We got proposed flights from TN to match our wish list and decided to make some changes due to cost and others due to logistics and recommendation from TN. We allocated a rough time to each destination with the knowledge that most flight dates could be changed with little or no cost along the way.
Involving the kids in planning our year away
Once we had confirmed what countries we were going to and actually bought the ticket, we wanted to get the kids involved and excited about the trip. Paul bought some giant scrapbooks and together with Ingrid and Scott we made 1 spread per country.
Paul and I printed ideas, images and articles from the internet, collected travel magazines and brochures that we put in a big basket together with some scissors and glue sticks. Every weekend, typically on a quiet Sunday morning or afternoon we sat down browsing, sharing ideas, answering questions, cutting and pasting in the scrap books together. Not only did it help make the kids feel involved, but I think it also helped them prepare mentally for some of the amazing and strange places we have visited since. We also made pinterest boards for each country with ideas and tips from other travellers.
Our 12month Round the World Itinerary
All in all we booked 17 major flights on one round the world ticket. We also got a camper van for Australia and insurance through Travel Nation and so far it has all worked out great. The biggest change to our plans so far is in South America where we are swapping time in Chile and Argentina for more time in Peru and Bolivia. Chile and Argentina are simply too expensive for us to sty in for a longer period of time while Bolivia is one of the cheapest countries. We also swapped Costa Rica for Nicaragua due to cost and that has worked out great so far.
The flights cannot be book more than 1 year in advance, so Travel Nation keeps a log of proposed flights and confirm the bookings while we travel as the tickets become available to book.
Booking & changing the tickets while travelling
Most of our flights are flexible with the dates and can be changes with no cost. Any time we have wanted to move or change a flight we simply email Travel Nation who check possible cost implications, options, rebook the tickets and send us an up to date itinerary.
Change of destination can be dome but is very expensive as it is more or less the same as buying a new ticket.
So, this is the big picture of the travel planning we did before leaving on our trip…the detailed day to day planning is a whole different story for another post another day!