Tag Archives: RTW

Back in Sweden but with a new perspective after our gap year

Beautiful Sweden, my childhood home

Summer days in Sweden
Happy summer days in Sweden, just as I remember them.

Landing in Sweden felt just like it always does, great happiness to see my childhood country and all the fun memories it brings back. The vast green landscape you can see already from the airplane is filled with pine trees, lakes, farmland and cute red wooden houses. This is the land of plenty, a land of outdoor adventures and a country geared up for families just like ours.

IMG_20170716_110410
Love being together with Grandpa again

As we came out of the arrivals gate Ingrid and Scott spotted grandpa straight away  and ran into his arms in a happy hug and reunion. Last time we were together was 6 months ago in Koh Chang Thailand, where we spent 2 weeks together enjoying amazing tropical beaches and glorious Thai food.

img_2285
Koh Chang beach at sunset

Although I have not lived in Sweden for 20 years, it still strangely feels like coming home. Its the scent of wet tarmac and wild flowers, the silver birches rustling in the wind, empty roads and wild berries, wide open fields and forests and the sound of chirping of birds and happy children that brings it all to life. A year of travels did not change any of that, in fact it made the feeling of familiarity and recognition even more prominent.

This was also the first time in a year that we were going somewhere we actually already knew, somewhere we had been before and the kids were very excited about that and especially about seeing their Aunty, my sister, and their cousins.

IMG_20170710_153939
Cycling with the cousins

Less things, more time

Coming back to Sweden did feel slightly different than usual though….. After a year of living very basic lifestyle on the road I see things we take for granted with new eyes. I now clearly see the abundance of food in the supermarket, a fully functioning and superbly equipped kitchen, reliable electricity and plenty of hot water, houses that are safe and well insulated, endless amount of toys and many fantastic leisure facilities right on your door step.

IMG_20170711_165338
Comfortable living in Sweden

This is the amazing life people live in Sweden and in many other European countries and on the surface all these material things make our life look very different from typical family life in Bolivia, Nicaragua, China or Vietnam.

img_7294
Typical street in Nicaragua
img_7890
Common mode of transport in Nicaragua
img_3502
Paper airplane session in China
img_3508
Chinese family we made friends with in Pingyao without speaking or understanding eachother

But in visiting these countries it has clearly showed us that underneath these material differences people are very much the same in that we all want to live a happy, healthy life among friends and family. The material abundance we typically strive for in the west make little or no difference to peoples general happiness.

IMG_2319
The 4 bags with all our belongings for our year of travel

While travelling, we have experienced this first hand living out of 2 suitcases with very few belonging and not really missing or pining for any material things. The truth of the matter is that we have actually felt freeer without the burden of owning so many things.

With low cost travel and cheap accommodation we have also learned to make due with less convenience and practicality in living, getting around and doing things.  

What may seem arduous, mundane time wasting at home has many times been part of the adventure and the fun while away. Simple getting from one place to another that can seem like a waste of precious time in our busy London life was typically the best way of discovering and experiencing new things and places while travelling.

Moto taxi in Bolivia
Moto taxi in Bolivia is the best way to get to where you need to go and a great way to enjoy the scenery at the same time

As I think about it and try to understand the difference in how I have come to view and experience these things I keep coming back to time. It is the time we put to our disposal that make all the difference in how we appreciate what we do with it rather than the actual actions themselves.

So, although we have managed with less things over the past year we have had the luxury of more time. With more time comes less of a need to do things quickly and make the most of every minute. Instead, we filled our days with more mundane things such as finding the best playgrounds and fruit stalls, wandering without a destination in mind, looking at insects and animals along the roads, mending our clothes, going to the market and cooking together, playing tickle fights and games etc. In taking our time doing these things we found that we actually enjoyed them more and the need to always use the time wisely and effectively to see the sights and visit the typical tourist attractions decreased.

IMG_20170508_131034
We preferred cooking together in Bolivia to eating out
img_3097
Looking for fruit in Xian, China rather than temples

Simple pleasure that cant be bought

IMG_20170707_171253
Wild strawberries

The other change I have started to notice is that counting the pennies on our travel really changed the way we look at consumption and buying things. I increasingly find that I only want to buy what I really need, Paul is doing the same and the kids ask for less too. The endless options and variants in the typical western shops bring no or very little added value to our life and with that insight we are happy to do without it.

Screen Shot 2017-07-29 at 12.23.23
Endless choice of dairy products in a typical Swedish supermarket

It is not the things or food itself that provide the pleasure but simply how we view it and what we make of it. None of the food we bought in the huge supermarket (bar the delicious crisp bread perhaps) could provide any more pleasure than the Perch we caught, gutted, fried and ate while hanging out on lake Hjalmaren with my family.

IMG_20170709_193155
Fishing and catching a Perch

The pleasure is not really in the size or the taste of the fish but simply having caught it and then sitting down together eating it regardless of the actual taste…something that cannot be achieved with any fish bought in a shop.

No berries could be more delicious than those picked and eaten on my friend, Marias land, or the oranges in our own garden in Bolivia 2 months earlier..even if the actual taste is better when you buy them.

So, having done this amazing trip on a shoestring I take more and more pleasure in the little things. The same is true for the time spent in Sweden where I most enjoyed picking wild berries and eating them, digging for worms, fishing, rowing the little rowing boat, digging trenches in the sand on the beach, enjoying a coffee in a sunny sheltered spot and reading Swedish comics to the kids.

IMG_20170711_131528
Doing nothing much and loving every moment

The thing that always makes time in Sweden even more special though is just doing all of the above with close family and friends. So I guess this is a good warm up for our next stop and adventure, Glasgow, where we will try living for a year close to family on my husbands side.

Screen Shot 2017-06-22 at 19.28.18
Glasgow

There will be exciting and challenging times ahead as we will try to apply the things we have learned on our travels to our everyday life in Scotland…living simply, enjoying the little things in everyday life and freeing up time to do more of the things we really love.

Advertisements

Round the world trip itinerary – Thailand

Easy to plan your trip on the go in Thailand

img_6785
Beautiful beaches of Koh Chang

Before heading to Thailand we only knew we wanted to do some climbing in Krabi and probably visit the Northern parts but nothing was set in stone. We found it very easy to travel and make plans on the go in Thailand as tourism is so developed and easily accessible to tourists and with most people connected to tourism speaking basic English. We loved our time in Thailand and could easily have spent more time here, especially in the North where it is easier to get away from the well established tourist trails.

img_9773
Chiang Dao trek, Thailand

 

Thailand itinerary 4wks Nov 18 – Dec 13
Bus from Krabi airport to AoNang 2hrs
Ao Nang 7n
Flight to Chiang Mai 2hrs
Chiang Mai homestay 8n
Chiang Mai town 3n
Bus to Chiang Dao 2hrs
Chiang Dao 4n
Bust to Chiang Mai 2hrs
Night train to Bangkok 8hrs
Bangkok 3n
Vietnam & Cambodia 6 wks then back to Thailand
Bangkok 3 nights 3n
Bus & Boat to Koh Chang 10hrs
Koh Chang 12n
Boat & Bus to Bangkok 8hrs
Bangkok 1n
Flight to Tokyo 6hrs
Flight to Dallas 11hrs

The end of our gap year – now what?

Was it all just a dream

Sadness and happiness, excitement and worry…..these are the mixed emotions we are feeling now that our family gap year has come to an end. Paul has just left Sweden for Scotland to look for a house while the kids and I will spend the last 2 weeks of our round the world trip here with my family. I cannot believe that the year has flown by so quickly. Part of it feels just like a dream, almost as if it never happened, and only when we look through the 10 000+ photos we have taken along the way does it all start to feel real again.

IMG_20170517_094758
Looking through our travel photos

The final few weeks of our trip we spent in a tree houses in the Amazon jungle of Bolivia then La Paz & Arica Chile followed by Buenos Aires, Argentina, Iguazu waterfalls in the cross lands of Paraguay, Argentina and Brazil and then finally a few magical days in Rio de Janeiro. The stories from these fantastic places, that made the trip so special right up to the end will follow soon….so keep reading my posts if you want to know more!!

I feel excited about going back to the UK but also strangely sad that our magical year together is coming to an end. We are so very tight as a family now having spent so much time together …for 10 months we have pretty much slept all 4 of us together in 1 tiny room with Ingrid and Scott sharing a bed for the most of it.

What will it be like to go back to a working life with the kids at school and sleeping in separate rooms! I will not miss the sleeping arrangements thats for sure but I will miss the endless quality time together without deadlines or stress.

I will miss not seeing the kids and Paul all the time but Im sure I will also enjoy a bit more me time …. So many mixed emotions. Leaving London and going on a year long family adventure has simply been the best thing ever. It has not always been easy and carefree, but always a totally awesome adventure.

Thats the end of our trip, now what???

We have started to verbalise what we would like our life to be like when we get back to western civilisation. Although we don’t think that we have changed a lot over the past year, things we felt and believed before leaving London has more clearly come to the surface through the experiences and the time we have had together.

Love the colourful walls in Valparaiso
Together

We have an even stronger desire now to live life to the full and spend as much as time a possible with our children before they grow up and go out into the world on their own. We feel less of a need to prove ourselves in highflying careers and a decreasing interest in consuming and buying things that don’t really add much to the enjoyment of our lives. What we enjoy the most is simply time together.

This is of course easier to do when you step out of the usual 9-5 life and just follow your heart. The big question now is how can we continue living our life more like that when we get back to the UK?

No job, no house, no school, try not to worry…..

I had hoped we would somehow have an epiphany along the way as that would make the next phase of our lives easier to orchestrate, but this has yet to happen.  Strangely I find that I worry less and less about it although it is now only a few weeks till we arrive in Glasgow and Paul I both are still looking for the right job to get stuck into, a house to live in and a school for Ingrid and Scott.

Screen Shot 2017-06-20 at 20.17.01

I really do believe that all pieces in the puzzle will fall into place somehow, things will work out one way or another, they just have to. What we do know is that we are keeping our house in London and our tenants have signed to rent it for another year and that’s a  good start!

Screen Shot 2017-06-22 at 19.28.18
City of Glasgow, Scotland

The plan is to rent a small house or flat in Glasgow, Scotland, close to Pauls family a for a year to see if this is the right place for us. As Scotland is much more affordable than London it will allow us to explore a cheaper lifestyle with perhaps more meaningful jobs. It can give the kids a great sense of belonging too being close to a lot of family after a whole year without. There is good school and healthcare, amazing nature and wildlife to enjoy and many hills to climb in Scotland if we can just bear the typical rainy grey weather.

Life is a big adventure

Screen Shot 2017-06-22 at 19.29.26
Scottish highlands on a rare sunny day

Is Scotland the long term future for us? I don’t know and right now we just look at it as next phase in our life adventure. I have never lived there and so aim treat it like any other place we have visited and explored on our round the world trip this year. Moving to a new ciry has a different set of challenges to travelling such as getting the kids into a school, identifying the right area to live, finding meaning full jobs that we enjoy or perhaps starting our own business. Then there is also the exciting prospect of getting back into the sports we love and other activities such as music and art plus the upside of spending more time with family and friends.

Although I am sad about the end of our trip Im also excited about the future and probably need to spend some more time planning it. At the same time I don’t want to use all the time in the last few weeks of our trip on the laptop to try and map it all out. I want to enjoy every moment in the here and now just as I have been doing over the past year. Im sure the next phase will work itself out if we only let it.

IMG_2346
Our last night in Rio at the end of our trip.

Sucre, Bolivia – city of dinosaurs

We enjoyed the dinosaurs in Sucre, Bolivia

From Potosi the bus ride to Sucre was uneventful. 3 hrs mostly downhill to 2200m altitude. Sucre is the administrative capital of Bolivia and much more developed than Uyuni and Potosi. A walkable town centre with beautiful white colonial buildings was a welcome change from the dust in Uyuni and Potosi.

IMG_20170503_140011
Sucre, the white city
IMG_9613
One of many street children in Sucre

Our hostel Recoleta Sur was nicely located halfway between an lovely park and the main town square. Our first day here we spent most of our time in the amazing dinosaur playground.

30 min outside town there is a park and tourist attraction with the largest set of dinosaur footprints in the in world…more than 5000 individual prints on a vertical rock face. This is the reason many tourist areas around town have a dinosaur theme.

IMG_20170503_114830
Endless dinosaur play equipment
IMG_20170503_103804
Dinosaur play park and monkey bars

We were all amazed at the huge, free playground here. Beautifully built all set in a dinosaur theme with endless sets of monkey bars to keep even the most demanding monkeys happy, swings, climbing frames, spinners, water features and the largest slide we had ever seen on the tail and the neck of a huge dinosaur.

We liked wandering around the town for a few days but got really badly affected by the high level of pollution. As it is one of the more developed cities in Bolivia there are a lot of cars and busses and we found that the streets were full of pollution spewing traffic all day long. We had though about staying here for a few weeks if we liked it to allow Paul and I to start job-hunting. In the end after just 3 days in Sucre, 2 of which Ingrid and I were climbing, we were ready to leave.

IMG_9623
Sucre Airport leaving for Santa Cruz

Next stop Santa Cruz and Samaipata, as recommend by the Bolivia expats community. Ingrid and I spent 2 days rock climbing wile Scott and Paul went to the fantastic dinosaur park .

Living with kids in Bolivia – good advice from Facebook friends change our plans

Don’t believe everything you read

Screen Shot 2017-06-20 at 20.17.01
Enter a caption

As we were getting into the month of May we needed to settle down somewhere and start thinking about what to do at the end of our year long trip in July. We had started looking for UK jobs already in February while we were living in Nicaragua, only to realise that it was too far out in the future to yield any results. Now was the right time to get into our homecoming plans properly, but where could we settle down for a bit do so?

img_7265
Settling in and looking for a job while in Nicaragua

We had agreed that the country we would stay in would be Bolivia, simply for the reason of cost. Bolivia is one of the cheapest countries in South America still and as we were approaching the end of our 12 month travel, our remaining budget was becoming increasingly important in our decision making. I had done some research about travel in Bolivia during our time in Peru and Chile and was feeling a bit apprehensive about staying here for a a month or more after reading about travellers experiences of unfriendly people, dangerous roads, rubbish food and dangerous dogs.  However we know by now not to trust everything we read but rather to follow our own instincts as it always takes a bit of time to adjust to the people and the culture in a new country. After a week here our first impressions of Bolivia did not match the negative things we had read so we thought we’d give it a go and stay.

IMG_20170505_081921
Carlos, one of our new friends in Bolivia

While exploring Sucre for a few days, we initially thought we might stay there and enjoy the more developed part of Bolivia. However, we quickly decided we didn’t want to stay there due to the pollution and big town feel.

IMG_20170503_140011
Sucre the white city

Paul and I had agreed that our the top priority for the next month or so was to stay somewhere cheap with good internet access to help progress with our job hunting but we soon found ourselves doing the exact opposite.

Great advice from local Facebook groups

Back in January I had found some great Nicaraguan and and Costa Rican expats groups on Facebook. The expats in these groups are in may ways similar to us. Families and people that have left the old “western” way of life to enjoy a new and simpler life in other parts of the world.

By simply asking these likeminded people for advice on the best places to live with kids we found a great place to stay and a local school in Granada, Nicaragua. In the end Nicaragua turned out to be one of our favourite parts of our travel so far. So with no ideas of where to go next in Bolivia or what to do for the next 2 months other than avoiding the big cities and living cheaply, I contacted a Bolivian expats group on Facebook for some inspiration and advice from families who had already made the move.

Screen Shot 2017-06-20 at 20.13.48
Expats Facebook groups have proved very useful

Change of priorities – and plans

Where in Bolivia is a good place to live for a travelling family with primary school age kids? I simply put this question to the few thousand people on the closed Facebook group and only minutes later the advice from friendly folk came thick and fast. Sucre, Cochabamaba, Tarija and Samaipata were the main 4 suggestions with lots of advice and information on why these friendly people through so. Cochabamaba and Sucre we had already ruled out due to size so that left Tarija and Samaipata. Tarija is located in the far southeast on the Argentine border so did not really fit our travel plans, but Samaipata to the east on the Amazon border would not be ideal either.

Screen Shot 2017-06-20 at 20.34.41

After reading up about both places and compering the two I instantly felt that little rural Samaipata could be the right place. A small town of 3500 people, lovely climate of 25 degrees, in the mountains full of wildlife, plenty of things to do and see and with a small community of foreigners that we could tap into to for help.

 

IMG_0430

The Samaiapata crowd had also been particularly helpful on Facebook and that felt like a promising start. The main issue was internet coverage. After 2 weeks in Bolivia we already knew how poor internet is here so when we discovered that there is only 1 cafe in Samaipata with decent internet we knew we had to change our plans or our priorities.

Putting the new plan into action

Hours earlier, on Air BNB I had fond a great little house in the centre of Semaipata that was pretty cheap soI contacted the host to check that there was internet in the house. No was the answer, “but you can buy internet data to use on your phone with a Bolivian SIM”…Could we live for a month and look for jobs and houses back in the UK without good Internet access?? We agreed all other things about Samaipata seemed too good to turn down and so agreed we would go for it and make the job hunting process work one way or another.

IMG_20170507_080716
Our house in Samaipata, with a garden and mandarin trees.

Once decided, we started looking at how best to  get there. Bolivia is not a huge country but the mountainous terrain makes it hard to travel anywhere. From Sucre to Samaipata is about 400km but would take some 12 hrs on bumpy roads in an uncomfortable night bus. The advice I got from my new Facebook friends was “Fly don’t die” and so that is what we did. Only 2 days after posting the question Facebook, we were on our way to Samaipata.

IMG_9623
Leaving Sucre for Samaipata by plane via Santa Cruz

We flew from Sucre to Santa Cruz for about £40 each and then got a mini bus to Samaipata from there. Despite opting out of the bus it was not the easiest of journeys. After weeks in the cold high in the mountains we were also surprised and bit bothered by the heat as we got the bus from the airport to the minibus station in Santa Cruz.

IMG_20170506_141044
Quick break before the 3hr minibus up into the mountains
IMG_9644
9 people in a minibus. This guy got the short straw.

The mini bus schedule ran as most mini busses do in Bolivia, they leave when they are full rather than follow a specific schedule. So we let the first bus go in order to have something to eat and a quick travel break. The next bus didnt leave for another 2 hours when all the places were full. Finally, with one guy practically sitting on the gear stick, we were off to our next Bolivian adventure.

IMG_9877
Ingrid and Scotts school in Samaipata, Bolivia

Rock climbing in Bolivia

Sucre – climbing with new friends in Bolivia

IMG_20170505_081921
Carlos and Ingrid

We desperately wanted to go climbing in Bolivia as we had not managed to do any climbing at all in Peru. When we were in Peru the catastrophic floods and landslides made it impossible to reach many climbing areas and unsafe to climb in many places. It had been 4 months since our last outdoor climb in Cat Ba Vietnam and we were itching to get back on the rock. At the same time I was wondering if I still would have enough climbing fitness in me to really enjoy it.

 

DCIM100GOPROGOPR1275.
Beautiful Ha Long bay Vietnam back in December 2016.

Once we got to Sucre from Potosi and started looking at things to do there, we immediately realised that there is plenty of rock climbing in the Sucre area. Happy days! There are 2 main climbing companies that operate in Sucre and through a friend of climbing friend that met in Lima 2 months earlier, I got in touch with Carlos at ClimbingSucre to se if he could help us out.

IMG_8269
Climbing at base camp Lima

By the time Carlos and I got talking we only had 2 days left in Sucre before our flight to Santa Cruz. Luckily Carlos offered to take us out climbing that same afternoon so that we could fit 2 climbing sessions in before leaving. Perfect! With such a long time since our last climb, to fully enjoy it we would need a proper warmup session before trying any harder climbs. We agreed on 2 half days of climbing at BS1000 and headed off out to Sica Sica crag just a few hours later.

Rock climbing at Sica Sica Crag, Bolivia

With only a handful of climbs in the last year in China, Malaysia, Australia, Thailand x 2, and Vietnam. Ingrid and I were lacking our usual climbing strength, especially in our fingers so we were both hoping to  enjoy climbing some lower grades than usual.

IMG_20170504_132405
View over Sucre from Sica Sica crag

Carlos met us at our hostel and a taxi buddy of his picked us all up and drove 10min to the crag at the edge of town. How amazing to have such a big wall to climb right on your door step at almost walking distance from the centre of Sucre. No wonder foreigners have settled here to run climbing businesses.

IMG_20170504_144005
Bolivia, Sucre, Sica Sica crag set in a tranquil eucalyptus forest

Getting back on the rock after 4 months break

Ingrid was soo excited she was almost hyper. She was skipping along the steep path up the 20 min ascent from the road to the crag and singing non stop. We soon arrived at the gorgeous crag and enjoyed the great view over Sucre right behind us. The 25m wall has a steep path up one side, perfect for setting up top ropes. Carlos went to set up the ropes, while Ingrid and I got our gear out.

IMG_20170504_150823
Ready to climb

As he came back down he was keen to point out that there are a lot of unsafe routes set up by amateurs in Bolivia. 2 routes he pointed out on this wall were set up with unsafe bolts and unless you come here with a guide, you would not know this and perhaps have an accident as a result.  Bolts and drills are hard to come by in Bolivia, and although climb Bolivia pay for some of the routes there guys set up, Carlos also explained he and other climbers have invested a lot of money in bolting routes and buying gear that is more expensive in Bolivia than in most European countries.

IMG_20170505_111536
Sore toes

I was not looking forward to unwrapping our smelly shoes that had been hiding in layers of plastic bags in the bottom of Ingrid backpack for months. Happy to find that they were ok and good to use…my feet however were not as pleased. I got another little bag out with what i thought was chalk, only to discover it was a bag of pasta! What a plonker, a days climbing without chalk as Carlos had not brought his either! At least the crag was in the shade so we would hopefully not be climbing too hard or sweating enough to really need it…

IMG_20170504_153452
Lovely routes on the Sica Sica crag

We started easy on a couple of 4s on the giant slab and were happy to find that the technique was still in us. We were also pleased to start the 2 days of climbing on a slab as it meant more leg power and less reliance on our weak fingers and arms. Most of the climbs were along flakes and cracks and friction on this sharp sandstone was good all they way. We continued climbing through the 5bs and 5cs  and finished on a couple of lovely long 6as. What a lovely afternoon of climbing.

IMG_20170504_143427
Ingrid on top rope at Sica Sica crag Bolivia

Lead climbing on Garcilazo Crag, Bolivia

Day 2 we headed off at 8 and had only a 15 drive to Garcilazo crag. The driver who’s car was running on something other than petrol was struggling to get the car up the hill to our drops off point, but eventually we made it.

IMG_20170505_120448
Tricky approach to the Garcilazo crag in Bolivia

Once there I could not see the crag anywhere…turns out that we were on top of it and the approach was s steep scramble down a slippery hill to the impressive wall of exposed sandstone. Luckily Ingrid is like little mountain goat these days so we managed to get there safely in the end. The Garcilazo crag is a high quality vertical sandstone with long cracks, some tough crimpers and a distinct lack of foot holds.

IMG_20170505_091939
Typical route on Garcilazo crag in Bolivia

It is south facing so in summer, this shady spot provides great protection form the sun, but as this is winter it was very cold in the shade so I was glad we had brought our hats and puffers. Yann (one of Ingrid climbing coaches back in London) says cold is good for friction said Ingrid with a smile.

IMG_20170505_095339

No hanging about, I has asked to lead and that is what I got. I set up the first 5a route and Ingrid second it after me. We were both really suffering with cold fingers, especially the 1st third of every route. It was total agony and  sharp rock on our cold weak fingers made for an uncomfortable start.

Fingers apart, I felt really confident leading this route as it had many options for hands and feet. As the crag is approached from the top, all the ropes can be cleaned from the top as we were leaving, meaning could spend more time climbing and less time cleaning routes.

IMG_20170505_103756~2
Excited and happy to be lead climbing again
IMG_20170505_110733
Ingrid working her way up this 6a+

We moved on to top a few other routes of the same line and started to feel the pain building up in our relatively weak finders and feet after months of no climbing. I loved this crag, such a perfectly clean and sharp vertical rock towering up above you and a great mix of comfortable and hared moves. There are also many different routes to climb in a great range of grades from 4 all the way up to 7b+.

IMG_20170505_093108
Having a rest before topping out on this long crack

The first few moves on all the route were quite reachy and hard so Ingrid opted to second me while I led. Even I struggled to get the first 2 clips in on all routes and was secretly pleased she opted out of leading today. With more recent climbs in the bags I’m sure she could have led these routes with confidence, but lack of regular climbing does quickly take your top performance and climbing confidence out of you.

 

IMG_4363
Sore fingers after 2 days of climbing

After 4 leads and 2 top ropes my feet were absolutely killing me and Ingrid was getting hungry. Time to head back into Sucre to meet up with Scott and Paul who had been out to se the dinosaur footprints and park.

IMG_9516
Over 5000 dinosaur foot print on this wall
IMG_9537
Having fun in the dinosaur park

 

 

Dynamite sticks & fear deep inside the Potosi mines

Potosi, Bolivia the richest mine in all of world history

IMG_9270
Waiting for the bus in Uyuni

We initially through we would stay in Uyuni for a few days to chill out after our 3 day 4×4 adventure across Salar de Uyuni, but quickly changed our mind. Uyuni is not a particular nice place to hang out, just a transit town where the roads from both Argentina and Chile converge before continuing up towards la Paz and all other cities in Bolivia.

IMG_9264
Uyuni playground had a great slide and not much else

We only managed dinner at a really good pizzeria, a visit to the playground in the morning followed by lunch and a 4 hr bus ride up to 4090m, to Potosi, the old silver mining city but that was just about enough. 

IMG_9312
Beautiful colonial buildings and me looking silly in Potosi!

We could definitely feel the lack of oxygen at this altitude and the pollution from heavy traffic made it even worse. We all suffered light headaches, dehydration, general fatigue and grumpiness. Hostel Realeza was in a good spot right in the heart of the colonial city centre, close to the market and the beautiful town square.

IMG_9327
May 1st march in Potosi, a town full of workers and unions

Our first full day here was May 1st, the whole city of Potosi was closed as different unions of miners, farmers, shop keepers, teachers etc marched through the city centre. A great sight to see all the people out marching for their rights, especially the ladies dressed up in the finery and traditional costumes.

IMG_9370
Ingrid showing off on the monkey bars

After spending the day acclimatising and hanging out at an amazing playground we organised our trip to the mines the following day.

Safety gear for us – dynamite sticks for the miners

IMG_20170502_092246~2
Excited miners – before going into the mines

The main thing to do in Potosi is to visit the old silver mines so this is what we decided to do. There are a few travel agencies offering a mine tour, but we chose Koala tours, the only tour that takes you into an actual working mine rather than a closed down mine. Early departure in a minibus a few blocks up from the main square then a quick stop to get kitted our with protective clothes. Ingrid and Scott were both excited as Paul had explained to them that going into the mines would be a bit like playing Minecraft. Little did we know……

IMG_9403
Getting kitted out with safety cloths before heading into the Potosi mines

We all got protective trousers, coats and welly boots. I was surprised that they had wellies just the right size for the kids. Final touch was a protective hat with a head torch and a heavy battery pack clipped into your belt. Just getting dressed and walking in all the gear was hard, especially for Scott. How would he cope walking like this deep inside the mine…..

IMG_20170502_094136
Buying dynamite gifts in the miners shop

Next, the minibus took us to the miners market were we bought gifts to take with us to give to the miners we’d meet inside the tunnels. The guide explained that its the part of our tour fee that goes to the miners and the gifts we bring that keep the working miners happy for tourist to come into the mines to see them working. We bought dynamite sticks, ammonium sulphate, detonators, coca leaves and soft drinks that they mix with 96% alcohol while working. Next stop the actual mines!

IMG_9421

Feeling scared deep inside in the dark Potosi mines

IMG_20170502_102949
Cerro Rico at 4400m

After a 15 min drive up the hill we were there. Young coca chewing men covered in dust and dirt were having a break outside the mine entrance as we got a safety briefing from our guide. Every now and then a 2ton cart with dirt and stones came hurtling out of the entrance on old rickety train tracks pushed & pulled by 3 young men. These were the carts we would have to avoid at all cost once inside the tunnels.

IMG_20170502_103951
Getting ready to head into the mines
IMG_20170502_104100
Last minute safety chat before we head into the mines

With our head torches turned on we went into the tunnels covering our mouths with our buffs to limit inhaling the dangerous mining dust. The tunnels were pitch back and very small,  much smaller than I had imagined. Only Scott could walk upright the rest of us were folded over trying not to trip on the tracks and stones along the tunnel floor.

IMG_9461
Inside the dark mining tunnels

In the distance we could hear carts being loaded and pushed down the tracks. “Out of the way” cried the guide and we all had to jump into a niche along the side of the track to avoid being run over. Every 10 min or so another cart came hurtling at us as we stumbled along the dark tunnel, folded in half and sweating profusely in all our heavy gear.

IMG_9431
Miners hard at work

As we got deeper into the tunnels, the oppressing feeling and slight fear was getting to all of us, especially Ingrid who was looking very uncomfortable stumbling along in the little light from her head light. After 40 min of walking, 450 m deep inside the mountain, where more than 10 000 men work everyday, we finally arrived at a resting station. During our 10 min break the guide told us about the hard life of the miners in Potosi and the gods they worship to stay safe.

IMG_9452
The mining god

Each man work for himself in a syndicated group with their earnings depending on the minerals they find. Around 50 miners die every year in accidents and another 50-100 in lung related diseases, their life expectancy is only 40-50, but working the mines earn them more money than any other job they could possibly do here. 

Time to get out of the mines – we end the tour early

After the 10 min break we were supposed to head further into the tunnels for another hour of exploring the tunnels deep inside the mines. At this point Ingrid and Scott were starting to feel a bit unwell and so I told the guide we had to take the kids out. To be honest, at this point I did not want to go in any further either.

IMG_9445
Feeling uncomfortable deep inside the mine

On the way out we had to wait as carts were filled up with rubble from a shaft in the roof…and all I could think of was the terror of being stuck in the mine behind falling rocks. The guide assured us we were safe, but I certainly did not feel very safe.

IMG_9473
Happy to be out in the fresh air
IMG_9476
Well deserved rest in the fresh air

Once outside, we waited an hour in a little safety shack before the rest of the group returned. Ingrid almost fainted as we sat down, totally overcome by the stress of being inside the mine for over an hour. I too felt unwell and relieved to be out in the fresh air again. Scott and Ingrid both promised then and there to study hard in school so that they never ever would have to work in a mine.

Magical Machu Picchu

Aquas Calientes – A charmless town built for tourists

IMG_7674
Arriving at Aguas Calientes

The train ride from Ollantayatambo to Aquas Clientes, or Machu Picchu as the town is called these days, is the most expensive train ride per kilometre in the world but its the best way to get to Machu Picchu unless you are hiking there. You are only allowed to bring hand luggage on the train so we left our big bags at the hostel in Ollantaytambo to spend 2 nights and 2 days there.

IMG_7254
The train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes

We went on a Peru rail train with 300 degree panoramic views, meaning you can see out the window and also up through the roof. The view is great even on a cloudy day like ours. The train ride only takes almost 2 hours and on the way you get served drinks and a little something to eat.

IMG_9560
Not looking at the views…just colouring in!

The quinoa strudel they served was supposed to be authentic and tasted ok but I would have preferred a simple empanada instead. All in all the journey was not too long and quite comfortable ….as expected when paying top dollars for the tickets

IMG_7648
The valley of Aguas calientes

Aguas Calientes town is the gateway for all tourist who come to see Machu Picchu and is very different from Ollantaytambo, the old Inca town. It is built specifically for tourists and so lacks any real charm of the Peru we have grown to love. Streets lined with restaurants and 4-5 story hotels and with the the hot springs at one end and the roaring river at the other. We stayed at Machupicchu Packer, a basic hostel with breakfast is included in the price. For those starting early they give you a parcel with a cheese sandwich, fruit and water to take with you on your way to Machu Picchu.

Unhappy 4.30 wake up call to walk up to Machu Picchu

IMG_7320
5am start…mixed emotions

We had packed 2 small day packs wth essentials the nigh before to allow everyone to sleep as long as possible before the 4.30 am start. 1 bag with raincoats and hats and one with food and drinks. We talked to the kids about the early start the night before, but Scott was still recovering from illness so we were expecting the worst when waking him up in the morning….and he did not disappoint. After very reluctantly getting dressed he went on a huff about not having breakfast before leaving the hostel. I want pancakes he was shouting and he refused to walk.…Nothing we said could change his mood so in the end we just set off with Scott on Paul shoulders and Ingrid and I trailing behind.

IMG_7317
The queue to the bus and taxi up to Machu Picchu that we walked straight pased

We were slightly delayed by the morning tantrum and reached the river crossing 5.15 rather than 5 when it officially opens. As we approach we saw a huge line of people waiting by the river. Oh no, we thought it was the queue up the trail…. but no it was the queue for the taxi:-) Ingrid was laughing wondering why people waiting for the taxi were all wearing hiking outfits and survival gear. With no other hikers in sight we left the streetlights behind, turned on our head torches and started the 2 hr climb up the the Inca ruins of Machu Picchu

IMG_7323
Getting ready to hike the trail up

Scott was feeling happier but had no intention of walking so Paul set off up the trail in his own pace with 25kg of Scott on his shoulders while Ingrid and I climbed at our own speed…as usual while conversing about her shed and invention workshop she is planning to build when we get back to the UK.

IMG_9594
1hr into our 2 hr hike up to Machu Picchu

1hr into the the hike, we started passing people who had set off slightly earlier and that helped keep us going for another 45 min until we were finally there. The path of stone steps up to Machu Picchu criss crosses the main road that the taxies and busses use to shift tourists up to the ruins and we had fun waving at tourists in the busses every time we saw one. The views you climb up through the clouds is amazing but nothing compared to the stunning view you get when you enter Machu Picchu itself.

Steep climb to spectacular views

You can only see the actual ruins once you get through the tickets gate and round the corner into the main site. As we were there at 7am the stillness of this majestic place as it appears in the fresh air through the lingering clouds is breathtaking. This must surely be the best time to visit. It felt like it was all ours.

IMG_7437

IMG_9611
Machu Picchu with Huyana Picchu peak in the clouds just behind

The tickets we had bought a few months earlier gave us entry to Machu Picchu and to climb up Huayna Picchu, the highest and most spectacular viewpoint over Machu Picchu itself. Our time slot to climb up was 7-8 so once inside Machu Picchu we went straight through the ruins to the Huayna Picchu entry point. There is an age limit of 12 to do this steep and slightly dangerous climb that takes about 2 hours up and down. Our plan was for Paul to race up on his own at 7am on the dot while I hung our with the kids by the entrance.

IMG_9648
Playing about while waiting for Paul

We were assuming he could go up and down in less than 1 hour so that Ingrid and I could still go up before the 8am deadline. Paul came down just before 8 so next up was me and Ingrid. We showed Ingrids passport and luckily the guard only checked the name in the passports against the tickets, not the age, so we were good to go up!

IMG_9656
Steep and narrow path to the top of Huayna Picchu

The view was totally amazing climbing up the steep and narrow stone step path. We kept a high pace and passed over 50 people on the way up to the top. Ingrid keeps count. We slowed down through a bottleneck of people just below the top viewpoint where everyone had to climb using hands and feet on the steep, slippery and very narrow steps that wound up ever higher and higher. Finally if was our turn at the very top and the view simply took our breath away.

IMG_9670
View from the top of Hayana Picchu

We found a perfect boulder where we sat for a minute and enjoyed a morning Twix while the clouds scattered revealing the beautiful site of Machu Picchu far below. We didn’t stay long as we were keen to get on the path down before most of the crowds and quickly defended the 500m down to the waiting Paul and Scott. What a  glorious morning of hard core climbing!

IMG_9678
Twix at the top

Exploring the ruins of Machu Picchu

You are not allowed to bring in food or drink to the Machu Picchu site and there are no toilets or resting areas inside the site. I guess it helps keep the crowds moving on as otherwise people would be inclined to linger and spend the whole day there. I liked how it was done as it helps keep the site clean and natural looking without modern buildings or constructions ruining the view or experience.

IMG_7526
Ingrid and Scott having fun exploring Machu Picchu

By the time Ingi and I reached he bottom of Hyanu Picchu it was already 10.30 and high time for a rest and recharge of everyones fading batteries. We went out of the main gat for a toilet break and to enjoy our packed lunch. Scott was tired but gradually we could see his entry levels were on the up soon ready  for some more exploring of the ruins themselves. Some ice-cream and coca cola for a final boost and then we were all ready to get going again.

IMG_7598
Scott like to pretend that the sun dial was a human sacrificial stone
IMG_9703
Exploring the royal temple and the fantastic the stonework

We entered the site again on the same ticket and joined the marked trail round the ruins, spectacular buildings and sights. A couple of hours later the big crowds started to appear just as we were feeling ready to leave. Paul and Ingrid walked the long trail down while I took a sleepy Scott on the bus.

IMG_7644
Ingrid still going strong after 6 hrs of high pace hiking

Finally together again at the bottom we had a celebratory early dinner, giant burgers all round! We had all too been looking forward to this day in macho Picchu and I have to say it did not disappoint.

Wildlife and rest in Paracas, Peru

We escaped the floods – where to next?

Screen Shot 2017-03-28 at 22.05.23

Once safe in Lima we had to decide where to go next. All roads into the mountains, our preferred destination, were still closed due to recent landslides and continuous flood risks so we had to stay by the coast.

One of the few places not to have been flooded was the small coastal village of Paracas, 4 hrs south of Lima. We met a French couple in our hostel in Lima who recommended it and confirmed it was free from floods. Perfect! The next day we were there.

IMG_8940

The main attraction in Paracas is the beautiful desert coastline that is the Nature reserve of Paracas and its close location to other interesting towns, ICA, Nasca, and a few km up the coast the larger fishing town of Pisco.

IMG_6370IMG_9126IMG_6462

After spending 1 night in in a rubbish little hostel I went looking for a more spacious place to stay. After walking round for half an hour I found a nice cheap little hostel with great communal space, a clean kitchen and fridge, a cat, a dog, a kitten and a little girl called Cielo. Perfect for Scott! Also a little park close by where the local kids hangout with a great set of monkey bars. Perfect for Ingrid. All in all a perfect place to chill out for a few days.

IMG_6390IMG_6620IMG_9174IMG_9257

Time to do nothing much

Schoolwork every morning or afternoon, followed by long walks on the beach, cooking together, playing in the park and going on little excursions.

IMG_8978IMG_6694IMG_6760

There is an area in Paracas filled with luxury houses and hotels, so eating out is not very cheap but with not much in our schedule here we liked spending time buying ingredients and cooking. Ingrid got her mojo back after her tummy bug and was keen to help me cook. Scott as always loves helping with any meal. A huge batch of Chile con carne got everyone back in great sprits!

The beach in Paracas is a beautiful wildlife sanctuary but not great for swimming as there is quite a lot of seaweed in the water. Instead we loved long walks to the kite surf club and back among flamingos, pelicans, sea lions and many other beautiful wild birds.

IMG_6414IMG_6992

Deserts and wildlife while waiting for the mountains

We had a great day swimming in one of the best beaches in Peru, a 15 min drive through the desert from Paracas at Mina beach.

IMG_9196IMG_6914

We went there early in the morning after at stop  to admire the red beach in the desert landscape along the way. Once at Mina, we climbed down the stairs to the sandy beach tucked away between 2 big sandy hills. Fresh, clear  and sparkling clean water, what a great little place for a swim. We paid S70 (£15) for a private car to take us there and wait 3 hrs to then the us back plus S 40 to enter the national park.IMG_9221

We  also did the mandatory boat trip to see the amazing wildlife our on the Islas Ballistas. The tickets cost S35 per person, but then just before boarding the boat they tell you to pay the national park tax as well S15 per person. 2 hrs of sea lions, pelicans, penguins and boobies with a great guide in a quiet and comfortable speedboat is well worth the money. The roaring herds of Sealions made the most amazing sound as we bobbed along the cliffs in the boat.

IMG_6509

IMG_6546

IMG_9134IMG_9071

So even though we enjoyed our time here, some days hiding for the blowing sand in our room, we would not have stayed here more than a few days under normal circumstance. Given the trauma and illness over the past 2 week in Trujillo and Huanchaco, this was a good place for us to rest and recharge our batteries, just be together and not do too much. We are all ready and excited to finally go into the mountains in Cuzco and Machu Picchu.

Emergency call to the British Embassy

Stranded in the floods of Northern Peru

fullsizeoutput_4a21
 Enjoying a bit of surfing our 1st day in Huanchaco 

IMG_5789

fullsizeoutput_4bd4
Kids playing in the park by the beach

We had 2 days on the beach in Huanchaco and a morning of wandering around town before the floods hit us in this town as well! We had tried to follow the unfolding Peru floods on the news, but its amazing how difficult it is to get information without access to the internet.

Screen Shot 2017-03-28 at 21.29.09
Trujillo under water – residents being evacuated

Through the owners of the hotel we found out that Trujillo, where the roof of our hostel caved in just 2 days earlier, had been badly hit with the first of 7 floods the day we left our hostel there. Everyone we met in Huanchaco were concerned about the floods but not expecting it to be a problem in Huanchaco a few km up the coast from Trujillo.

Worst floods in 30 years hit us in Huanchaco

fullsizeoutput_4bc7
The river in Huanchaco burst its banks

When the river bursts its bank at 3 o’clock in the afternoon, all the houses and business were caught unprepared. As muddy sludge started making its way down the main street, all we could do was to seek refuge on the roof and watch as the water continued to rise. In the distance we could see the sea turning brown from the outlet of the swollen river.

IMG_8641
Watching the events unfold from the roof of our hotel

Mud and sludge filled the streets and the ground floor of our hotel and all the other houses along the water front wiping out electricity, water systems and all the local phone and internet networks.

 

 

I felt completely helpless and yet somehow strangely calm as we watch the water fowling and the sun setting over the flooded streets. Time to get our head torches out, cook some spaghetti on the gas cooker and play a game of cards. We went to bed hoping to get some sleep but sirens, rain and worry kept me awake while the kids slept an unsettled sleep and Paul resting but with a high temperature and in pain day 3 of his tummy bug illness.

Stocking up on water and food

The morning after the floods Paul was feeling worse, I was exhausted and the kids naturally stressed about the flooding and situation all around us. Most of the water had subsided and in the hotel, staff and the owners had spent most of the night trying to clear the ground floor of  the mud and water. No electricity, no water in the taps but at least we had a gas cooker that worked. I set out to find and stock up on supplies. 

Screen Shot 2017-03-28 at 21.41.57
People buying what they can carry
Screen Shot 2017-03-28 at 21.38.14
Empty shelves in the big supermarket as people stock up and no new deliveries are made

With many shops affected by the floods those that were still open were limiting the what you could buy to make sure everyone could get something. I took our big back pack and went round looking for open shops stocking up on water and dry food to last us a few days. Spaghetti, tuna, tomato sauce, biscuits and crackers. I also got some eggs, flour, sugar and milk hey presto pancakes of breakfast to lighten the mood!

After the floods the real nightmare begins

…20-30 cm thick sludge and mud was covering everything where the water had flooded and then subsided…piles of dead fish, plastics, trees and rubble washed up on the beach and streets along with many damaged houses and buildings, some still under water.

fullsizeoutput_4ba0
Mud after the flood
IMG_8704
Main street still under water the next day
fullsizeoutput_4ba7
Beach filled with rubbish and dead fish
IMG_8834
Once the mud is dry everything is caked in dirt and dust

Watching the news in a little shop I could see that Trujillo and nearby Chiclayo and many other places were still inundated and that all roads in and out of Trujillo and all of Northern Peru remained closed due to landslides and ongoing floods.

IMG_8675
Roads still under water

I realised our plans to go further into the mountains Cajamarca and Chachapoyas would not be realised. Disappointed of course as we had all been looking forward to exploring the less touristy mountains and ruins of northern Peru…but what can you do?

Help! – Emergency call to the British Embassy

While the streets remained unsafe filled with dirt and water, Paul was getting worse, no electricity to help the kids pass time reading on the kindles, watch TV or a film…and as boredom kicks in.the kids decide to spend the morning making and running a beauty salon! I just love my kids!

With no means of leaving the flooded area or ability to check our options to fly out I took a taxi to the local little Airport to see if we could somehow buy tickets to fly out somewhere safe. No such luck….

fullsizeoutput_4bcd
Only people with tickets and or ID were allowed to enter the Airport area

Military planes were evacuating people, locals and gringos had been waiting at the tiny airport for up to 36 hrs to get on a plane to get out. With the airport in chaos and no information or help to be found.

fullsizeoutput_4bcc
Line for the military evacuation plane

 I returned to Huanchaco disheartened and even more worried. Flights could only be bought on line or through a travel agent, but Internet was not working and all travel agents closed due to the floods….

fullsizeoutput_4bd0
7 days without food

When Paul started vomiting and shaking with 40 degrees temp, the following morning and with only $20 left in cash, no way of getting medicine or money and no where we could go I made a call to our travel agent in London on the hotel owners phone to see if they could help us buy some flights to get out …4 tickets suddenly became available to fly out the next day but Paul was way too ill to travel. Next available tickets were for 6 days later and costing us a small fortune….With the thought of 6 more days in the flood zone I feel panic kick in and decide to make contact with the British Embassy in Lima, to ask for advice and medical help in case Paul would get even worse.They tell me there is a place in Trujillo where ATMs are still working and a functioning private clinic we can go in case of an emergency….

After I made it to a shopping centre where there was still cash, Travel Nation confirmed our flights out 6 days later and I managed to find antibiotics for Paul I was feeling a bit better…that only lasted 1 day until Ingrid suddenly turned really ill as well.

IMG_8580
Keeping the mood up and the kids relaxed

This time I could get antibiotics quickly but was still worried sick about Ingrid who was vomiting and had diarrhoea for 2 days not being able to keep liquids down….I was counting down the days till we could leave…..

Unforgettable lessons in life

fullsizeoutput_4ba5

Since we started travelling we have, and especially me, practiced being in the moment and not worrying about things that could or might happen. During our 2 weeks in flooded Peru I had to work really hard to keep calm and not get worked up, agitated or frustrated about the situation is which we accidentally found ourselves. The kids are very resilient and adaptable but they take their queue from me and Paul on how to act ad react. Keeping calm and positive was essential for their wellbeing and peace of mind in this very stressful situation.

We got a first hand experience of a huge natural disaster, it is not something I would wish on anyone but its part of life for many people and something we will never forget.

fullsizeoutput_4bf0

We were never in a life threatening situation even though some moments felt dangerous and scary. We have talked about it a lot with the kids, made drawings and write ups about it to help process the experience. It has also given us an amazing opportunity to talk about global warming, water flow and rivers, about flooding and city planning, plumbing, recycling, water, volume and the devastating effects of floods.

IMG_8852

We wanted to explore and experience the word, show the kids that life in different parts of the world have different challenges. Ingrid and Scott have learned so much from this experience and felt first hand the fear it causes but also the importance of community and solidarity while helping clear up after the floods. I am glad we have managed to finally leave and sad that we didn’t get to see the beautiful north in its full glory, but looking back, its an experience I wouldn’t change.

Feeling emotional – Peru in floods

Feelings of doubt

Piles of rubbish and dead sea life after the floods

The past few days have been very emotional. For the first time on our trip I have gone through waves of doubt and distress wishing we were back home in the UK…. I hit an all time low just after the roof fell in in our hostel in Trujillo and then seeing Peru in floods with many people in distress on the news realising all the roads were closed and we were trapped.

The floods are still happening although water has started to reside in some areas Trujillo and Chiclayo are still under water, Lima and many many other areas have been hit by flash floods and land slides. Meanwhile, we are glad that we can pay our way to safety in an apartment hotel in nearby Huanchaco

IMG_5789
Taking refuge in Huanchaco

Now a couple of days later, safe from the floods in a flat in Huanchaco, just a few km up along the coast the feelings of doubt have mellowed somewhat. I would not choose to take the kids to a natural disaster zone if I could avoid it but at the same time this is real life, this is most likely the effects of global warming, this is the world we are creating for our children and it is happening right now.

Floods and mud in northern Peru

Feeling and seeing with their own eyes the consequence of global warming and how precarious life is makes you really appreciate the things that matter the most, safety and life itself.

The roof falls in

fullsizeoutput_4a17
The roof starts to fall in

We knew it had been raining a lot more than usual in parts of Peru, all the locals said so. When climbing in at the Base camp, the climbing wall in Lima enquiring about climbing in Cajamarca and Huaraz, the guide told me there is too much rain to climb and that a lot of land slides have made many routes unsafe.

We spent 3 days exploring Lima before heading north on a 10hr night bus to Trujillo for the sun and moon temples with a plan to go forth north east after a few days into the mountains.

IMG_5527
Magic water fountains in Lima

Once in Trujillo we could see on the news that big landslides and floods in the north along many of the big rivers causing the northern region and 811 cities in Peru to declare a sate of emergency. No busses or traffic can travel on the pan American highway that goes along the north coast into Ecuador.

Flooded cities in a state of emergency

The second night of heavy rain, I woke Paul up around 10.30pm when a big chunk of the roof in the middle of our room fell to the floor. The electricity was not working so in the light of our head torches we could se water gushing in through the wall by Ingrids bed and more chunks of the roof falling in, this time on top of the bunk bed Ingrid was sleeping in.

fullsizeoutput_4a5b
The roof falls in on Ingrids bed

All the while Scott was happily sleeping in the bottom bunk in one of the other beds in our room. We decided that Paul and Scott would stay the night in our room in the relative safety in the bottom bunks and moved the bed slightly to where the roof looked less likely to collapse. Ingrid was awake and very scared so we quickly moved her into a bed in one of the relatively dry and safe dorm rooms full of excited German youth while Paul and I moved all he bags up onto the beds safe from water on the floor.

Bathroom roof falls in

At this point we did not realise the extent of the flooding in other parts of Trujillo and now also Lima together with many other areas Chosica, Piura, Chiclayo, Ica to mention a few…we only saw it on the news once we have managed to get to Huanchaco, a few km further north the next morning.

Central Trujillo under water for the 6th time in a week

Roads closed – change of plans

As the internet was not working anywhere we could only talk to people and watch the news to try and inform ourselves of the situation and the risks of flooding and damaged roads. We found out through a girl in the hostel that one of the bus companies were not running any services at all as they had had 2 accidents with overturned busses in the past 3 days…

IMG_5582
At the bus terminal

We had bus tickets to go on a mountainous 8hr bus trip to Cajamarca  at 2900m that day, but I was actually relieved to find out that the roads were closed as it made our decision about weather or not to go easy. At the bus office they confirmed no busses were running north or east to Cajamarca due to land slides,. The main road to Lima was also closed as one of the big road tunnels had collapsed.

Enjoying the here and now

Boys go surfing in Huanchaco

Rain is forecasted for another 5 days and more and more towns are hit by the floods as the rivers continue their paths down the mountains. In Huanchaco, we are safe for now staying in a flat a relatively expensive apartment hotel but you can’t put a price on feeling safe, especially when it comes to the kids. Ingrid was really shaken up after the roof fell in and is now after a couple of days of school work, beach and surfing starting to get back to her normal self again.

Huanchaco playpark

We have had to put our plans to go to Cajamarca and Chachapoyas over the next 3 weeks on hold and try to enjoy ourselves here and now while we wait for the roads to open. The logical part of me says this is all part of living in the now and appreciating the things around us rather than planning and wishing for things that may or may not happen while the emotional me would prefer to be somewhere else…

Here and now in Huachaco, the food is good, the flat is good, there is a little playground just across the road a good surfing beach and we are getting back into schoolwork.

Afternoon of school work

All in all things could be a lot worse and our thought go out to the people of Peru who are not as lucky as we are….

.

Home comforts & temptations in Miami

Catching up with friends

 

 

IMG_5257

We had our 1st hot shower in a week at our friends house in Miami. I had almost forgotten the lovely feel of crisp clean sheets in your bed and the calm feeling of home that we enjoyed here while relaxing for a few days. The children had a great time hanging out with their friends and the 2 dogs and Paul and I loved the opportunity to catch up with Celia and Jean, our dear old friends from London.

IMG_8165
Kids playing football in the garden
IMG_8182
Taking Magic for a walk

We didn’t do much here apart from chilling out. Paul took the kids to Wynwood walls and south beach while I went to the hairdresser to get some long overdue highlights done. We spent another day at the mall stocking up on essentials such as socks and pens, new kindles to replace our cracked ones and a new tables since our last one got stolen in Nicaragua.

IMG_5192
Wynwood walls Miami
IMG_5206
Climbing is not just a sport its art
IMG_5230
South Beach Mimi

 

Shopping temptation in the American shopping mall

As we are out of the habit of shopping I was interested to see how Ingrid and Scott would react in the mall. Would the old “I want this, I need that” come back or would they stay as uninterested in buying and having things as they have been over the last few months?

IMG_5131
Scott going for a roller coaster ride in a pair of 3D phone goggles

The only things we had to get Ingrid and Scott got a new t shirt and pair of shorts each, the first clothes we have bought them since we left London. With all the temptations of an American mall I have to say, I was surprised that they keep their calm and only asked for ice cream! which is a treat you cannot deny them after a long morning of Not shopping. We still had a lot of fun looking at all the crazy things you can buy. I am happy to say the we walked away from the mall having bought only the things we really needed.

IMG_5237
Ice cream break

Leaving home…..again

While at the house, when not playing with the dogs, Scott spent most of the time in Sebastiens room playing with all the toys. Ingrid took the opportunity to find a bit of space to read as usual.

IMG_5251
Scott playing with Sebbies toys
IMG_5114
Comfy bed for a bit of Ingrid reading time

The feeling of “home” can be a bit unsettling for all of us as we all of a sudden are reminded of many of the simple home comforts we don’t always have while we travel such as individual space, fridge and kitchen,  clean sheets and towels and little things like that that can make it hard to get going again. So, when it was time to leave I was excited to see that the kids were happy, relaxed and ready to go on our next adventure in Peru. As Scott put it, travelling is fun when its not boring because you get to do and see new things. 

IMG_5302
Miami airport – We re off to Lima Peru

So after a month of having our own little home in Nicaragua and a few days in the home of our drear friends we are ready to rough it again end explore the present and past of Peru